Pest Guide

Solenopsis geminata

Introduced into the USA only 60 years ago off a ship in Mobile, Alabama, their mounds contain up to 100,000 ants and have many queens. Each mound has tunnels under the surface running down to about five feet. The mounds can be constructed in the open or under things like landscape timbers, sidewalks or foundations. They often appear “from nowhere” after a rain.

The queens usually lay eggs that develop into sterile workers. These workers are the foragers of food and they keep the colony well fed with their far ranging activity. Occasionally, the queens lay a different king of egg that develops into a swarmer that is either male or female and has wings. After the swarmers are nourished to maturity by the workers, they take off on a mating flight. Wherever the fertilized female swarmer lands she begins developing a new mound. This is why you will never have complete control.

Fire ants are many sizes, ranging from 2mm to 10mm, all being found in the same mound. They are attracted to electrical fields such as air-conditioning units and can cause hundreds of dollars of damage to compressor motors. They are also allured to soiled clothing as found in laundry rooms and closets.

These ants are very mobile and can move their entire colony in a very short time. We find that colonies that have been besieged by an ineffective treatment will often move to a new site, complicating control.

Fire ant bites are painful and result in a small pustule. Some people are overly sensitized to the venom and subsequent bites may create greater stress in the victim, possibly resulting in the inability to breathe. It is rare for these ants to bite if they are not defending a nest.

Treatment

If possible, ant infestations inside the home should be treated with baits that allow the workers to distribute the active ingredient among the colony, resulting in eradication. This may take several days. If this time delay is untenable due to the location of the ants or other circumstances, residual sprays or dusts may be applied but the homeowner should realize that the ants will be scattered. Only the ants that come in contact with the residual will be killed.

Effective fire ant control can be obtained by a semi-annual broadcast application of an IGR bait followed with a broadcast spray or bait ten to fourteen days later. Any mounds that occur in the following six months should be spot treated with bait granules.

Monomorium pharaonis

Pharaoh ants are small, yellow/red ants about 1/16″ in length. Nests are found in wall voids, behind baseboards, inside refrigerator insulation, shower rods, electrical boxes, etc. Large colonies have up to 300,000 workers and many queens.

New colonies are formed by “budding”. When a colony is too large or under stress, i.e., being treated with residual pesticides, the workers take some of the colony’s brood (larvae & pupae) and move to new locations. Treating with sprays is similar to trying to extinguish a fire with gasoline. Treatment

Only baits should be used. Do not use sprays or dusts. Call All-Safe Pest and Termite for details on treatment.

Camponotus pennsylvanicus

Carpenter ants are large ants. The workers have only one node (spike on their back near their waist) and when viewed from the side have a rounded thorax (shoulder).

The carpenter ants in North Texas are red and black, but the male swarmers (with or without wings) are solid black. Worker ants are two sizes; minors measuring 1/4 in. and majors measuring 1/2 in.

Carpenter ants do not eat wood, but destroy it by carving out structures to form their nests. You may find “frass”, i.e., wood sawdust filled with pieces of ant bodies at the entrance to their nests.

Treatment

Carpenter ants can not generally be controlled by baits, although there is a new bait that is showing good results in some cases.

Walls or other voids where they are present should be drilled and chemical injected into the void. The attic should be dusted thoroughly, particularly around the eaves of the house. The eaves, soffits and exterior perimeter should be sprayed with a micro-encapsulated chemical that offers a long residual.

Any shrubs or trees that are in contact with the house should be trimmed back and sprayed if ants are present in the vegetation. The treatment should be thorough and follow up inspections made because any surviving ants will attempt to salvage the brood from the treated nest and reestablish in another area around the home.

It is often productive to follow the trail of ants to nearby trees or structures to identify satellite nests which can be treated.

Periplaneta fuliginosa

This roach, which is called a “water bug” by many locals or a “tree roach” by people who live in Highland Park is really a cockroach of major proportions.

Adults are 1 to 1-1/4 in. and are brownish-black in color, have wings, can fly and are attracted to light. Instars (juveniles) have distinctive colors, shapes and bear limited resemblance to the adults.

Common habitats are loose mulch, ground ivy, woodpiles, and the soffits/eaves of attics. They can be carried into homes, but usually enter at night via small cracks and crevices where light penetrates to the outside. Once inside, they tend to prefer warm and humid areas that are not exposed to air currents.

They feed on any kind of organic matter and can do minor damage to indoor plants. Primarily a night feeder, it is not uncommon for the homeowner to find them in the kitchen or pet feeding areas in the middle of the night. They can be very prosperous and flourish in huge numbers by feeding on dog droppings left in the yard.

Treatment

Using an exterior bait, treat the exterior perimeter of the home. Pay careful attention to ground mulches, decks, outdoor structures, large stones, firewood piles, under patio plants, etc. Treat remote harbinger areas as well, for these roaches will travel hundreds of feet.

Interior treatments should include baiting in cracks and crevices, void areas, garages and attic spaces. Sprays can be helpful, but take care not to contaminate any baits that have been used.

Blattella germanica

This is the roach that gave roaches their name. Terribly prolific…a pair can generate over 33,000 offspring in 12 months.

Identified by two black “corporal stripes” behind its head. Adults reach a maximum length of 5/8 in. Instars (juveniles) have different body shapes and bear little resemblance to the adults.

This roach is very common in restaurants, apartments and less privileged neighborhoods. Common ways of introduction are in cardboard boxes, paper grocery sacks, and even in the purses and personal belongings of domestic help.

German roaches can be found throughout structures but usually occur in rooms where people eat. Bathrooms can be also easily infested, in that the roaches find nourishment from particles left on toothbrushes and in sinks.

This roach lives in cracks and crevices but can be seen venturing out for food which is usually at night or they are visible when disturbed by opening drawers or cabinet doors.

Roach Control and Treatment

Most effective treatment comes from baiting with special gels, granules or dusts. Treatment should be intense & thorough as control must be obtained before population gets totally out of hand. Thirty days of improper treatment and you’ll want to call a realtor instead of an exterminator.

Bait placement should be in cabinet corners, cracks, crevices and spaced frequently. This roach doesn’t travel far.

Latrodectus spp.

The black widow is much feared for its bite will send the unlucky person receiving it on a journey of pain.

The B/W is one of the easiest spiders to identify; its black body in sharp contrast to the red hour glass on the underside of its abdomen. They are generally nonaggressive but they will be more aggressive when guarding an egg sac. B/W’s build their webs in secluded, protected sites under shrubbery, boards, furniture, debris, inside boxes or even in seldom worn shoes.

The male is smaller than the female, colored differently and does not have her characteristic sphere-shaped abdomen.

Contrary to what most people have heard about the B/W, she does not necessarily eat the male after mating. He may hang around a while and even share in her meals. If he remains too long, she may decide to kill him, but most of the time he understands the story line and moves on.

The B/W may produce from four to nine egg sacs during a summer with each sac containing 15 to 4 eggs. After about 3 days, the spiderlings emerge from the eggs and climb to a high point where they release a strand of silk and balloon off into the wide world on currents of air.

Treatment

Remove debris that the spiders use to build their web on. Spray directly with nonresidual spray or treat areas with micro-encapsulated products. Retreat in 3 weeks if necessary.

Loxosceles reclusa

The “recluse” is known as a fiddleback because of a violin on its back just behind the head.

In milder seasons, the brown recluse can live outdoors under stones, firewood and loose bark where it constructs a small irregular web. In the winter, it spins a silken tube or cocoon like web to protect itself from the cold. It is more often found indoors in cracks, and behind or under items stored in closets, garages, attics, etc. It is “reclusive” in its habitat.

The female is a passive hunter and uses its web to capture prey. The male searches for prey in the areas surrounding the web retreat. He prefers to spend the day in dark secure areas surrounding the web retreat.

The spider takes about one year to mature from egg to adult and the adults are relatively long lived, probably surviving two winters. A female produces from one to five egg sacs during her adult life, each sac containing about 5 eggs. Most of the spiderlings are hatched during the summer. The young spiders do not have the violin marking.

Homes that have had asphalt shingle roofs installed over wood shingles can house large populations because these structures tend to have numerous silverfish which are a favorite food of the brown recluse.

When this spider decides to hide in between the folds of seldom used clothing, bed sheets, or shoes it becomes a danger to people. It is not aggressive and will only bite when trapped against a person’s skin. A bite of the recluse is usually painless although some people experience a sharp pain, akin to an ant bite.

A localized burning sensation may develop and last about 3 to 6 minutes. Within the next 8 hours the reddened area enlarges and a pus-filled blister forms in the center. A hard lump up to two inches in diameter can form. Within 12 to 24 hours after the bite, systemic reaction can occur, although rare, and is characterized by fever, malaise, stomach cramps. nausea and vomiting.

Recluse venom causes blood clotting in the small vessels of the skin around the bite, resulting in death of the affected tissue. It is not uncommon for an open sore several inches wide and up to 1/2 to 1 inch deep to develop.

First Aid

Reduce swelling by applying ice packs or alcohol to the bite area. Apply hydrogen peroxide or iodine to prevent infection. Remain calm. Seek immediate medical attention at an emergency room or medical center. Make every attempt to collect the spider so proper identification can be made.

Treatment

A periodic, thorough house cleaning, vacuuming seldom used storage areas, boxes & closets will help minimize the spiders inside the home. Use of monitor boards in storage areas and attics is critical. Traps should be placed along walls. Fogging or dusting is with contact chemicals and residuals or flushing products is recommended.

Severe infestations may require a professional, but total control is so difficult that guarantees are not available.

Mus

This is nature’s most adaptable mammal.

These small creatures (less than one ounce) live in fields and are jealous of your life style. They’ll most commonly use the spaces around your garage door as an entry to move in with you. From there, its up in the walls and probably ultimately to your kitchen.

Droppings (1/4 in. long) are everywhere they are…that’s generally your first clue. Mice are curious. They will react quickly to baits and traps.

A female mouse can raise 3 to 35 babies per year. One winter, we trapped 38 mice in a new home which was located next to an empty field. Ironically, the neighbors had no activity.

Treatment

Glue boards are an effective way of trapping these little creatures. Snap traps with cotton balls used as a “bait” can also be effective. Place them near walls where you see droppings. Be careful with placement if pets or children are present. aits can be effective, but if the mouse dies inside a wall or other inaccessible area, you may want to go on your vacation a little early.

That old line, “We give them something that makes them thirsty so they go outside looking for water and then die.” is a lie that should rot the soul of any exterminator using it.

Caution: If baiting, use a bait that can be reversed should a non-target (child or pet) should accidentally obtain access.

Use tamper resistant bait stations where children or pets are present.

Siphonaptera

Until your home is infested with fleas, you don’t know how bad life can be. Infestations can reach the point where white socks look black just by entering a room.

This insect has a complete metamorphous, i.e., adults lay eggs which hatch into a larvae, which builds a cocoon around itself (pupae). The adult flea emerges from the pupae to start the cycle over again.

An adult flea lays about 300 to 500 eggs. Given this, when you think fleas are bad, you haven’t seen anything yet. At any given time, only about 5% of the total population is in the adult stage.

Fleas need a host to reproduce…your pets will do just fine. Give them a little blood and they will be on their way.

We recommend that our customers who are pet owners, should consult with their vet about a product called “The Program”. This is a hormone that after being ingested by the pet goes directly to the pet’s blood stream. When a flea bites the pet for the shot of blood, it is basically sterilized by the hormone. Cool chemistry! The hormone has no impact on the pet’s virility nor will it affect your ability to manage the size of your own family.

Treatment

There is no such thing as a partial, successful flea treatment. Success or failure is directly correlated to the thoroughness of the job.

All floor surfaces throughout the house should be treated with an adulticide and an IGR (hormone). The yard surface adjacent to the home and where the pet or people traverse should be sprayed with an effective adulticide. Nematodes can be used for a non-toxic exterior treatment.

The following list of details must be attended to with care:

Vacuum all rugs, carpets & furniture, especially between and under the cushions. Dispose of the vacuum bag in an outdoor receptacle. Place an activated flea collar inside the new bag you install.

Clean & clear all floors, even the closet floors must be cleared of all objects to provide chemical application to floor surfaces. Be sure to get under the beds. Mop all tile and vinyl floors. Sweep concrete areas.

Remove pets. They can not remain at home. Treat the pet with a good low-toxic pet spray and an IGR before returning. Aquariums may remain, if covered. Their pumps should be turned off for four hours if possible without harming the fish.

Clean pet bedding – wash or dispose of all pet bedding.

Now begin spraying all floor surfaces with approved adulticide and IGR. Begin in one end of the home and work your way towards a door. Ventilate!

Do not step on treated surface until dry! You may not get harmed, but your foot print will remove the chemical, jeopardizing the treatment’s effectiveness. You may return with pets after 3 to 4 hours.

After the lawn is mowed and watered, spray it with an approved adulticide. Treat shady areas and spaces under wood decks thoroughly.

Every 3 to 4 days, for a period of three weeks, thoroughly vacuum the carpet areas of the home.

If fleas are present after 21 days, repeat the process.

Order Lepidoptera

Silverfish can be found almost anywhere throughout the house. They tend to roam quite some distance while searching for food, but once they find a satisfactory food source, they remain close to it. Within structures, they can breed in many areas, i.e., wall voids, attic spaces, etc.

They can survive for weeks without food or water. They are rarely found outdoors.

Silverfish are pests of paper, particularly of glazed paper with sizing, wallpaper and wall paper paste, etc. They also eat proteins such as dried beef or leather.

Homes that have asphalt shingles installed directly over wood shingles can be heavily infested. The silverfish will nest between the two roofs and be very difficult to eradicate. Frequent fogging or dusting will help control their populations, but long range control will be elusive.

Treatment

Many infestations are very localized and environmental modification can be an effective control. Repairing leaking pipes, sealing up cracks & crevices, removal of potential food sources are just some to the beneficial changes that can be employed.

Dusting with contact and residual products will be helpful. Fogging with ULV equipment or canister bombs is helpful in reducing the numbers in heavy infested areas.

Plodia interpunctella

The Indianmeal moth was named by an early American entomologist who found it feeding on cornmeal (Indian meal). It is probably the most encountered pest of stored products found in the home.

Adults have a wingspread (tip to tip) of about 5/8 in. to 3/4 in. Wings are pale gray with outer 2/3 of the wing having a reddish brown hue with a coppery luster.

The female lays 1 to 4 eggs on the food which upon hatching, the larva establishes itself in a crevice of the food material. The larval period lasts 13 to 288 days, depending on temperature and food availability. When the larvae is ready to build its cocoon, it generally goes to a ceiling wall joint and reestablishes itself there. The larvae are surface feeders and generally produce a lot of webbing throughout the infested part of the food. They attack grain products, dried fruits, seeds, nuts, dog food, bird seed. The adults cause no damage.

Treatment

Good sanitation is of prime importance. Timely removal of spilled foods will help. Tupperware type containers will protect foods. These pests will lay eggs in the folds of packaging, so repackaging foods in plastic bags or containers is helpful.

Non-residual aerosols can be used to kill exposed adults and larvae. After all food debris has been removed from pantry cracks and crevices, an appropriately labeled residual may be applied.

Armadillidium vulgare

These insects are called occasional invaders. They live outside your home in bark mulches and ground covers.

When outdoor conditions are too wet, or too dry, or any number of other reasons that will cause them to migrate, they become your unwanted guests.

They are unsightly, wedged in the seam of your carpet and baseboards. Their presence a attracts spiders who feed on them and, in time you will have a complete eco-system operating in your living room.

Treatment

Periodic exterior perimeter treatment with a micro-encapsulated residual is an effective way of keeping the population down. The chemical should be worked in and under the bark mulches.

We also recommend dusting in the weep holes of your brick veneer with a special water resistant dust that has a very small particulate, allowing for a good distribution in the wall voids.

If a severe interior problem exists, a residual dust or a low-toxic micro-encapsulated spray can be directed into the baseboard – carpet seam area along the exterior walls for faster control.

The best way for long term control is to apply periodic exterior treatments to the perimeter, maintaining an exterior barrier as your first line of defense.

Forticula auricularia

These insects are called occasional invaders. They live outside your home in bark mulches and ground covers.

When outdoor conditions are too wet, or too dry, or any number of other reasons that will cause them to migrate, they become your unwanted guests.

They are unsightly, wedged in the seam of your carpet and baseboards. Their presence a attracts spiders who feed on them and, in time you will have a complete eco-system operating in your living room.

Treatment

Periodic exterior perimeter treatment with a micro-encapsulated residual is an effective way of keeping the population down. The chemical should be worked in and under the bark mulches.

We also recommend dusting in the weep holes of your brick veneer with a special water resistant dust that has a very small particulate, allowing for a good distribution in the wall voids.

If a severe interior problem exists, a residual dust or a low-toxic micro-encapsulated spray can be directed into the baseboard – carpet seam area along the exterior walls for faster control.

The best way for long term control is to apply periodic exterior treatments to the perimeter, maintaining an exterior barrier as your first line of defense.

Parajulus impressus

These insects are called occasional invaders. They live outside your home in bark mulches and ground covers.

When outdoor conditions are too wet, or too dry, or any number of other reasons that will cause them to migrate, they become your unwanted guests.

They are unsightly, wedged in the seam of your carpet and baseboards. Their presence a attracts spiders who feed on them and, in time you will have a complete eco-system operating in your living room.

Treatment

Periodic exterior perimeter treatment with a micro-encapsulated residual is an effective way of keeping the population down. The chemical should be worked in and under the bark mulches.

We also recommend dusting in the weep holes of your brick veneer with a special water resistant dust that has a very small particulate, allowing for a good distribution in the wall voids.

If a severe interior problem exists, a residual dust or a low-toxic micro-encapsulated spray can be directed into the baseboard – carpet seam area along the exterior walls for faster control.

The best way for long term control is to apply periodic exterior treatments to the perimeter, maintaining an exterior barrier as your first line of defense.